By Amb. Emmanuel Mwamba
Mulungushi Textiles, once a symbol of Zambia’s industrial aspirations, seems to be caught in a perpetual cycle of political promises rather than genuine revival efforts. Despite significant financial backing, such as the $15 million allocated by the Patriotic Front Government, the plant in Kabwe continues to face severe challenges. The question remains: Can Mulungushi Textiles work, or is it destined to repeat its history of failure?
The Rise and Fall of Zambia’s Textile Industry
In its heyday, Zambia’s textiles and garments sector was a powerhouse. From independence in 1964 through the 1980s, the country pursued Import Substitution Industrialization (ISI) with vigor. This policy aimed to reduce dependency on foreign goods by fostering domestic production. The textile industry flourished under this protectionist approach, supported by a full value chain from cotton farming to garment production.
Noteworthy institutions like Kafue Textiles and Mulungushi Textiles thrived, while private sector players such as Partex Industries, Robin Garments Limited, and Sportex Knitting Mills added to the sector’s vibrancy. The Copperbelt region boasted its own textile giants, including Mukuba Textile and Kariba Textiles. At its peak, Zambia hosted over 130 textile and garment manufacturing companies.
The Impact of Structural Adjustments and Global Competition
The 1990s brought dramatic changes with the implementation of Structural Adjustment Programmes (SAPs). These reforms opened Zambia’s economy to global competition, dismantling the protective barriers that had once shielded domestic industries. The influx of cheaper imports from countries like China, India, Malaysia, and Vietnam undermined local manufacturers who struggled to compete with higher economies of scale and more efficient production processes abroad.
Simultaneously, the rise of second-hand clothing, known locally as Salaula, compounded the problem. Imported duty-free and priced significantly lower than locally made garments, these second-hand clothes were perceived as a practical alternative, especially for low-income consumers. NGOs like Development Aid from People to People (DAPP Zambia) facilitated this influx, which, while providing affordable clothing options, accelerated the decline of Zambia’s textile industry.
The Future of Mulungushi Textiles
Without a strategic, long-term policy to address the challenges posed by Salaula and cheap imports, the prospects for Mulungushi Textiles remain bleak. The revival efforts, while well-funded, are not immune to the harsh realities of an open and competitive global market. To survive, Mulungushi Textiles must not only secure financial support but also adapt to current industry trends, invest in modern technology, and potentially reorient its business model to meet both local and international demands.
